How to Clean Oil Paint Brushes Properly — and Keep Them for Years
To clean oil paint brushes properly, wipe off excess paint with a rag, work through the bristles with an odorless mineral spirits or brush cleaner, then wash with warm water and gentle soap, reshape the bristles, and lay flat to dry. Never store a wet brush upright in a jar — it permanently bends the ferrule and splits the bristles.
Cleaning oil paint brushes is one of those things most of us learn the hard way — usually after ruining a favourite brush. A few minutes of proper care after every session will keep your brushes painting like new for years.
I’m Julian Mercer, and I’ve been painting with oils in my home studio for over a decade. In that time I’ve destroyed more brushes than I’d like to admit — mostly because I was in a hurry or I skipped steps. These days I follow a simple routine that takes about five minutes, and my brushes stay in great condition.
This guide walks you through the entire process, from the first wipe to the final dry. Whether you’re a beginner or you’ve been painting for years, there’s something here that will make your next clean-up easier.
Why Cleaning Oil Paint Brushes Is Different
Oil paint doesn’t dissolve in water. That’s the most important thing to understand before you start. You need a solvent — something that breaks down the oil binder in the paint — before water and soap can do their job.
The good news is that the process is straightforward once you know the order. Solvent first. Soap second. Water last. Get that sequence wrong and you’ll push paint deeper into the bristles rather than pulling it out.
Oil paint can continue to oxidise and harden inside a brush ferrule for up to 48 hours after your painting session. That’s why cleaning the same day — not the next morning — makes such a difference to how easily the paint comes out.
What You’ll Need
How to Clean Oil Paint Brushes Properly — Step by Step
As soon as you finish painting, use an old rag or a paper towel to wipe as much wet paint from the bristles as possible. Work from the ferrule toward the tip. The more paint you remove now, the less work the solvent has to do later.
Dip the brush into a jar of odorless mineral spirits and swirl gently for 20 to 30 seconds. Press the bristles against the side of the jar to work the solvent through the paint. This jar will get dirty fast — that’s exactly what it’s supposed to do.
Wipe the brush on a clean rag, then swirl in a second jar of fresh mineral spirits. This second rinse removes the remaining solvent-paint mixture and leaves the brush much cleaner before you move to soap.
Put a small amount of The Masters brush cleaner or Murphy Oil Soap into your palm. Work the brush in gentle circular motions in your palm. You’ll see colour come out — keep going until the lather runs nearly clear. This step removes what the solvent left behind and conditions the bristles.
Hold the brush under warm — not hot — running water. Hot water can loosen the ferrule glue over time. Rinse until all soap is gone. Squeeze the bristles gently from base to tip to check that the water runs clear.
Use your fingers to reshape the bristles back to their natural point or flat edge. Lay the brush flat on a clean cloth or hang bristle-side down in a brush holder. Never stand a wet brush upright in a jar — water runs into the ferrule and loosens the glue that holds the bristles.
Keep two jars of mineral spirits on your table: one “dirty” jar for the first rinse and one “clean” jar for the second. Let the dirty jar sit overnight — the paint pigment sinks to the bottom and the solvent on top is clean enough to reuse. This saves money and reduces waste significantly.
How to Clean Brushes With Dried Oil Paint
Maybe you forgot a brush. Maybe life got in the way. Dried oil paint in a brush isn’t always a death sentence — but it does take more effort.
According to guidance from MoMA’s conservation team, oil paint cures through oxidation rather than simply drying, which is why it becomes increasingly difficult to remove after the first 24 hours.
Submerge the bristles — not the ferrule — in a dedicated brush restorer such as Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner & Restorer. Leave to soak for several hours or overnight. Do not leave submerged for more than 24 hours or you risk softening the bristle glue.
After soaking, gently work the softened paint out with your fingers. A stiff toothbrush can help with stubborn paint near the ferrule. Be patient — rushing this step breaks bristles.
Once the paint is moving, go back to the normal routine: soap in your palm, circular motion, warm water rinse, reshape, and lay flat to dry.
If a brush has been left for weeks with fully hardened paint deep into the ferrule, it may not recover completely. A brush with splayed, permanently separated bristles has usually passed the point of rescue. Keep it for rough texture work or disposing of excess paint — don’t throw it away just yet.
Why Proper Brush Care Matters
It’s easy to treat brushes as disposable. But a good oil painting brush — especially one made from natural hog bristle or sable — is a precision tool. It holds paint differently, releases it differently, and responds to pressure in ways that cheaper brushes simply don’t.
Caring for your brushes is also part of how you care for your creative space. As I explore in the Creative Living section here on Hurrell Editions, small rituals like a proper brush clean at the end of a session are part of what makes a home studio feel intentional rather than chaotic.
There’s something meditative about cleaning brushes after a good session. The painting is done, the colours are still fresh in your mind, and you’re slowly restoring your tools. It’s a natural way to decompress from the creative intensity of painting — and it means your next session starts clean.
Dos and Don’ts of Oil Brush Cleaning
- Clean brushes the same day you use them
- Use two jars of solvent — dirty first, cleaner second
- Follow solvent with soap to condition the bristles
- Reshape bristles before drying
- Lay brushes flat or hang bristle-down to dry
- Store clean, dry brushes in a roll or flat case
- Use odorless mineral spirits to protect your lungs
- Never stand a wet brush upright in a jar
- Never use hot water — it loosens ferrule glue
- Never scrub bristles harshly against a rough surface
- Never leave brushes resting on their bristles
- Never skip the soap step — solvent alone leaves residue
- Never soak brushes past the ferrule in any liquid
- Never use household paint thinner — it’s too harsh
The Best Solvents for Cleaning Oil Paint Brushes
Not all solvents are equal, and the one you choose affects both your brushes and your health. Smithsonian Magazine has covered the health risks of traditional turpentine and strong solvents extensively — the short version is that odorless mineral spirits are a much safer choice for a home studio.
| Solvent Type | Strength | Odor Level | Safe for Home Studio? | Best Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Odorless mineral spirits | Moderate | Very low | Yes — recommended | Daily brush cleaning |
| Turpentine | High | Strong | Only with ventilation | Studio with open windows |
| Linseed oil | Low | Minimal | Yes | Between sessions, not final clean |
| Winsor & Newton Brush Restorer | High | Low | Yes | Dried paint rescue only |
| Dish soap alone | Very low | None | Yes | Final rinse only — not a solvent |
Common Mistakes That Ruin Oil Paint Brushes
I’ve made most of these myself. If any of them sound familiar, you’re in good company.
- Leaving brushes to soak bristle-down in a jar. The bristles bend and the ferrule glue softens. Even overnight is too long.
- Skipping the soap step. Mineral spirits alone don’t condition the bristles. Soap removes the solvent residue and keeps the bristles supple.
- Using hot water. It feels more effective, but heat loosens the adhesive inside the ferrule. Warm is fine. Hot is not.
- Cleaning too roughly. Dragging bristles across rough cloth or scrubbing too hard spreads and breaks individual hairs. Gentle circular motions in your palm are more effective anyway.
- Storing before fully dry. Rolling up damp brushes in a brush wrap traps moisture against the ferrule. Give them at least two hours flat before storing.
Do not pour used mineral spirits down the sink or drain. Solvent waste should be left in a sealed jar to allow paint pigment to settle, then the clear solvent decanted for reuse. Fully hardened solvent-paint sludge should be treated as hazardous waste and disposed of according to your local guidelines. Check with your city’s household hazardous waste program for drop-off locations.
How to Store Oil Paint Brushes Properly
Clean brushes deserve proper storage. The goal is to protect the bristle shape and keep dust off the tips.
Pro Tips for Extending Brush Life
- Use a different set of brushes for dark colours and light colours. Mixing dark pigment into a light-colour brush is hard to fully reverse.
- Keep one old, damaged brush for mixing paint and loading palette — save your good brushes for the canvas only.
- A small amount of linseed oil worked through clean bristles before long-term storage conditions the hair and prevents brittleness.
- Label your solvent jars clearly. The two-jar system works best when you always know which is the dirty first-rinse jar and which is the cleaner second-rinse jar.
- Check the bristles near the ferrule after every clean. If paint is building up at the base, the ferrule will eventually splay the bristles outward. A deeper soap clean fixes this early.
- Natural hair brushes — sable, hog, mongoose — need more care than synthetic ones, but they also reward it with better paint application and a much longer lifespan.
Comparing Brush Cleaners: The Masters vs Murphy Oil Soap
These are the two products I recommend most often for the final soap step. Both work well — here’s how they compare.
- Specifically formulated for artist brushes
- Conditions bristles while cleaning
- Works on dried paint if left to soak
- Available on Amazon in small tins — very economical
- Mild scent, safe for home studio use
- Household product — not purpose-made for brushes
- Gentle and widely available
- Works well for regular maintenance cleaning
- Does not condition bristles as effectively
- Better for synthetic brushes than natural hair
What to Buy: Recommended Cleaning Products
Oil Brush Cleaning at a Glance
| Problem | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Bristles won’t come back to a point | Dried paint in ferrule, or stored bent | Soak in brush restorer, reshape, store flat |
| Bristles splaying outward permanently | Paint buildup at ferrule base | Deep soap clean near ferrule; may be past saving |
| Paint colour transfers to next session | Incomplete cleaning — pigment left in bristles | Add a second soap clean and rinse until water runs clear |
| Bristles feel stiff or scratchy | Solvent residue not rinsed out, or dry natural hair | Re-soap and rinse fully; condition with linseed oil |
| Ferrule loosening from handle | Hot water or prolonged soaking over ferrule | Use cool/warm water only; dry with ferrule facing up briefly |
| Brush smells of solvent after cleaning | Soap step skipped or insufficient | Always finish with Murphy Oil Soap or The Masters |
If you want to explore more about setting up a creative home space that supports your practice, our Art & Frames guide covers everything from storing finished canvases to displaying work beautifully on your walls.
And if you’re looking for art-related gifts for someone who paints with oils, our gift guide for art lovers includes thoughtful options at every price point — brush care sets included.
- Wipe excess paint first, then rinse in two jars of odorless mineral spirits
- Always follow solvent with a gentle soap — The Masters or Murphy Oil Soap
- Rinse with warm (not hot) water until it runs clear
- Reshape bristles and lay flat or hang bristle-down to dry
- Never stand a wet brush upright — water enters the ferrule and loosens the glue
- Dispose of solvent waste responsibly — never pour down the drain
- For dried paint, soak in a brush restorer before the standard clean
Oil paint requires a solvent before soap and water can work. The two-jar solvent method, followed by a gentle soap clean and a warm rinse, removes virtually all paint from fresh brushes in under five minutes. Reshape, dry flat, and store in a roll or flat case — never upright while wet. Good brushes cared for this way will last a decade or more.
FAQ: Cleaning Oil Paint Brushes
No. Oil paint does not dissolve in water. Soap and water alone cannot break down the oil binder in the paint. You must use a solvent — such as odorless mineral spirits — first to loosen and remove the paint. Then follow with soap and a warm water rinse to remove the solvent residue and condition the bristles. Skipping the solvent step leaves paint trapped deep in the bristles even if the brush looks clean on the outside.
Odorless mineral spirits — such as Gamblin Gamsol — is the best choice for a home studio. It breaks down oil paint effectively without the strong, harmful fumes of traditional turpentine. It is widely available, affordable, and safe to use in a room with normal ventilation. Avoid regular hardware-store paint thinner, which is harsher on both your brushes and your health.
Soak the bristles — not the ferrule — in a dedicated brush restorer such as Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner & Restorer for several hours or overnight. Once the paint softens, work it out gently with your fingers or a soft toothbrush near the ferrule. Then follow the standard routine: solvent rinse, soap in your palm, warm water rinse, reshape, and dry flat. Fully hardened paint from weeks ago may not come out entirely, but most brushes can be significantly restored.
Splaying happens for two main reasons. First, paint buildup at the base of the bristles near the ferrule pushes the hairs outward over time. Fix this with a deep soap clean working right up to the ferrule base. Second, storing a wet brush standing upright in a jar allows water to run into the ferrule and soften the glue that holds the bristles together. Always dry flat or bristle-down, and reshape before drying. If the splay is permanent after these steps, the ferrule glue has likely failed.
You can leave bristles submerged in mineral spirits for a short soak, but not overnight as a regular habit. Prolonged soaking softens the adhesive inside the ferrule and can cause bristles to loosen or fall out. A better approach is to do a proper clean each session — wipe, two-jar solvent rinse, soap, and water — so you never need an extended soak. If you must pause mid-session, leaving bristles loosely submerged for an hour is generally fine. Just never rest the brush on its bristles at the bottom of the jar.
The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver is the top choice for most oil painters. It is formulated specifically for artist brushes, conditions natural hair bristles while cleaning, and works on partially dried paint. Murphy Oil Soap is a good backup and widely available. Avoid dish soaps with strong degreasers or antibacterial agents — they strip the natural oils from hog bristle and sable and cause the hairs to become brittle over time.
Never pour mineral spirits down the drain or into household rubbish. Leave used solvent in a sealed glass jar to allow paint pigment to settle to the bottom — this can take several days. The clear solvent on top can then be carefully poured off and reused. The remaining paint sludge is hazardous waste. Check with your local household hazardous waste program for drop-off dates and locations in your area. Most US counties offer free drop-off events.
Do a standard clean — solvent, soap, rinse — after every single painting session without exception. A deeper clean, where you work soap thoroughly up to the ferrule base and check for paint buildup, should happen every four to six sessions or whenever you notice bristles feeling stiff or the point not reforming cleanly. Natural hair brushes benefit from a light conditioning with linseed oil after a deep clean to keep the bristles supple during storage.
Conclusion
Cleaning oil paint brushes properly comes down to one simple principle: solvent first, soap second, water last. Do it the same day you paint, take five minutes to do it thoroughly, and your brushes will reward you for years.
The two-jar solvent method is the most practical approach for a home studio — it uses less solvent, keeps things tidier, and makes it easy to see when your brushes are genuinely clean before moving to the soap step. Pair it with The Masters Brush Cleaner and you have a complete routine that works on every brush type.
If you’re just getting started with oil painting at home, building good brush habits from your very first session is one of the best investments you can make. Your brushes are the connection between your intention and your canvas. Treat them accordingly.
For more on setting up a creative space at home that supports your practice, explore our Creative Living section — and if you’re ever looking for beautifully made art tools worth giving as gifts, our Art & Frames guide is a good place to start.
